North Korea Embraces Dog Meat as Traditional Cuisine, Diverging from South’s Ban

SEOUL, Sept.16 (Korea Bizwire) – In a stark contrast that highlights the growing cultural divide between North and South Korea, the consumption of dog meat has emerged as a contentious issue on the Korean peninsula.

While South Korea has recently moved to prohibit the practice, North Korea continues to promote it as a cherished culinary tradition.

Last month, South Korea implemented the Special Act to End the Breeding, Slaughter, and Distribution of Dogs for Human Consumption, effectively banning the sale of dog meat.

Meanwhile, across the 38th parallel, North Korea actively encourages the consumption of dangogi, the North Korean term for dog meat, hailing it as a “traditional food of the nation.”

The popularity of dog meat in North Korea peaks during the summer months, particularly on boknal, the three hottest days of the year according to the lunar calendar. During this time, specialized dog meat restaurants see a surge in customers, with lines forming outside their doors.

The North Korean government has thrown its weight behind the promotion of dog meat cuisine. Every year, it organizes a national dog meat cooking competition, with results publicized through state media channels.

This year’s competition, held from July 22 to 25, was organized by the Central Committee of the Korean Association of Cooks at the Ryomyong Street Culinary Festival Hall in Pyongyang.

According to reports from the Korean Central News Agency and the Rodong Sinmun newspaper, prestigious dog meat restaurants from across the country showcased their culinary prowess.

Participating establishments included the Pyongyang Dog Meat Restaurant, Changgwang Service Management Office Dog Meat Restaurant, and notable eateries from various provinces such as North Pyongan, South Pyongan, South Hamgyong, North Hamgyong, and Jagang.

The variety of dog meat dishes extends far beyond the traditional bosintang (dog meat soup) or gaejang-guk (dog meat stew). Contestants presented an array of preparations including steamed dog sirloin, braised dog ribs, stir-fried dog offal, and dog meat mixed rice.

North Korea proudly attributes the development of dog meat cuisine to the guidance of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. State media often claim that under the Workers’ Party era, dog meat consumption has flourished into a rich tradition encompassing various cooking methods such as steaming, seasoning, simmering, stir-frying, cold dishes, wraps, and jellies.

The regime’s fondness for dog meat is deeply rooted in its leadership history. Anecdotes about Kim Il-sung’s appreciation for dog meat soup are frequently recounted in North Korean media.

One such story describes Kim Il-sung sharing his mother’s recipe for eliminating the meat’s gamey odor by adding a specific herb during cooking.

Kim Jong-il reportedly took a personal interest in the construction of the Pyongyang Dog Meat Restaurant, selecting its prime location on Unification Street and issuing directives to “continuously develop dog meat cuisine.”

While Kim Jong-un’s direct endorsements of dog meat are less frequent, state media have reported on his attention to the operations and quality control at dog meat establishments.

The promotion of dog meat in North Korea serves dual purposes: preserving what the regime considers traditional food culture and addressing a protein deficiency in the population’s diet.

With beef scarce and pork relatively expensive, dogs provide an accessible source of animal protein, especially for rural households.

North Korean defectors report that, unlike in South Korea, there is little aversion to dog meat consumption among younger generations in the North. One North Korean defector, now working in a public institution in South Korea, told Yonhap News Agency, “Dog meat is widely recognized as a summer health food and a nutritional supplement for those who are not well. It even has many enthusiasts.”

M. H. Lee (mhlee@koreabizwire.com)